Jacobite Connections.


Bonnie Prince Charlie entering the Ballroom at Holyroodhouse. (John Pettie 1839-93)
Our travels around this wonderful countryside has thrown up many delights, which you can read about in my Travel Blog, but one of the most interesting things is the many connections we have found to Charles Edward Stuart and the Jacobite history so I have include this as a separate “page” to bring these connections together under one heading. I will hopefully add to this as time goes on and we complete more travels.




About five foot eleven inches, pretty strong and well built, has a brown completion, full cheeks, and thick lips that stand out a little, he looks more of the the Polish than the Scottish breed, for he is nothing like the King they call his grandfather. A partisan description by a Whiggish physician of Lancaster, Dr Henry Bracken - November 1745.





Culloden Moor Revisit. 







Culloden Moor and its visitors centre is a pilgrimage for all lovers of Jacobite History. It was here on the 16th April 1746 that the last battle to be fought on British soil took place between the highland army of Charles Edward Stewart and the Government forces of the bloody Duke of Cumberland. Unfortunately the Prince lost and Scotland was changed forever. In the summary report produced by the National Trust for Scotland it is underlined that “Culloden Moor is at the heart our culture and spiritual identity as a Scottish nation. If we stand back and allow its demise through inappropriate development, future generations will never understand or forgive us” 


Stonehaven Aberdeenshire


Our recent trip to Stonehaven in Aberdeenshire included a visit to Dunnottar Castle, which is linked to the Jacobite uprisings through the Earl’s Marischal, a title bestowed on the Keith family in 1314 by King Robert the Bruce following the Battle of Bannockburn. The family’s connection with the castle goes back to the 1390’s when Sir William Keith built the first stone castle.



The Jacobite struggle to reinstate a Catholic Stewart dynasty to the throne began with the first Jacobite Rising of 1689.  At this time that the 8th Earl was a supporter of the Protestant William of Orange. However the Earls Marischal took up the Jacobite cause and the 9th Earl was imprisoned at Edinburgh Castle for his support in 1708. The 10th Earl, George William, was also to prove his loyalty to the Jacobite Rising of 1715 but at great cost. In September of that year the Earl of Mar declared James Stewart King, and joined the 10th Earl in a military campaign to overthrow the Hanoverian George 1st supplying troops and cannon from Dunnottar.



Both William and his younger brother James fought at the battle of Sheriffmuir in November 1715 but the cause was lost almost before it began. Both brothers escorted the rightful king to Montrose where James boarded a ship for France never to return.



Following the 10th Earl’s gallant service to the Jacobite cause he was forced to forfeit his estates including Dunnottar that had been in his family for 400 years. It then fell into disuse until 1761 when it returned to the ownership of the Keith family.  That was until 1919 when it was purchased by Lord and Lady Cowdray who went on to restore the castle, eventually making it a spectacular tourist attraction.

Incidentally it was William the 10th Earl who sailed from Spain with 307 Spanish troops, a small part of the main expedition of 5000 that was scattered by a storm, and landed on Stornaway on the Isle of Lewis reaching the main land in April 1719 settling in Eileen Donna Castle.
 
Christian's House. Stonehaven. 

The harbour at Stonehaven was a principal harbour during the Jacobite uprising with French troops landing there as support for the ‘45 that was until the Duke of Cumberland recaptured the town in February 1746.



Nearby Aberdeen’s considerable port town was captured by Jacobite James Moir 4th Earl of Stoneywood in September 1745 that was until it was recaptured during February 1746.







The Jacobite Steam Train - Fort William to Mallaig.


“The World’s Greatest Railway Journey” (Voted By Wanderlust Magazine)

To quote from The History of the Midland Railway which referred to the railway line between Fort William to Mallaig and was published in 1876. “If a line were to be built it would have to be by spanning the valleys with stupendous viaducts and piercing mountain heights with enormous tunnels, deep cuttings would have to be blasted through the rock and mile after mile of high embankments would somehow have to be piled on soft peaty moors. However, great the obstacle, they had simply one of four courses to take - to go over it, or to go under it, or to go round it, or to go through it; but go they must” The Line was finally completed on April 1 1901 but it never produced the returns that was expected. It did however escape Dr Beeching’s cuts in the sixties and in the seventies; summer use by visitors started the successful trend that continues to this day by running steam train excursions over the 42-mile journey.



The steam train departs from Fort William railway station at 10:15 and on the morning we travelled it was full. A second class ticket costs £35.00 for an adult day return and a child’s day return will set you back £20.00 giving a total of £90.00 for two adults and a child, plus of course a booking fee.


Neptune’s Staircase, an impressive flight of eight locks that allows boats to climb 20 metres to the main reach of the canal, can be seen as the train crosses the Caledonian Canal via the 50 feet span of the Swing Bridge at Banavie.





The train continues its journey through some typical picturesque Highland countryside and alongside the shores of Loch Eil. As the train precedes it passes Fassiefearn House on the right where Prince Charles slept on the 23rd August 1745 four nights after he raised the Royal Standard at Glenfinnan.


It was at Glenfinnan on 19th August 1745 the standard was raised by the Jacobite army under Charles Edward Stuart to begin the 1745 Rising. Set in a uniquely fitting picturesque location, the Glenfinnan Monument looks out proudly over Loch Shiel. It was built in 1815 to commemorate the many who fought and died for the Jacobite cause. The Jacobite train does not pass very close to one of Scotland’s most important monuments so to get a closer look, and to visit its dedicated visitor centre, you would have to make a special journey either walking back from Glenfinnan Station or travel by road.


The Monument can only just be seen in the distance from the Glenfinnan Viaduct, a location made famous in the Harry Potter films. Incidentally West Coast Railways, operators of The Jacobite, provided the steam engine and the carriages for the ‘Hogwarts Express’ as seen in this popular movie franchise.


Glenfinnan Viaduct is certainly one of the highlights of the journey to Mallaig. 1248 feet in length and 100 feet high it has 21 spans of 50 feet each, and was built wholly of concrete made from cement and crushed rock quarried from the deep cuttings through which the line passes at each end of this giant structure.


Our train journey stops at Glenfinnan Station to allow passengers to get off the train and have a look around the West Highland Railway Museum located in the restored station building.


We were fortunate to be entertained by a young piper on the platform during our 20 minute stop.


Beyond the Viaduct we pass though four tunnels in quick succession, then cross Glen Beasdale by a long embankment and through one of the deepest cuttings on the line to reach Beasdale the private station for the 19th century Arisaig House.

At Borrowdale we enter the longest tunnel on the route at 1050 feet. After the tunnel we cross the Borrodale Burn by another large concrete Viaduct.


Loch-nan-Uamh is where on the 25th July 1745 Charles Edward Stuart arrived on the French frigate Doutelle and discussed plans for the forthcoming rising with the local Clan chiefs and landed gentry. It’s also here that the Prince escaped to France on September 20th 1746 after his sad defeat at Culloden.


Arisaig is the next station and if requested the guard will stop the train. The station was opened in 1901 to bring tourists to the area. A nine-hole golf course lies to the north, and the Coast has fine sandy beaches and you can get ferries to the Small Isles from here in the summer months.





After Arisaig Station we pass through what some consider being one of the most beautiful sections of the train journey. It offers us panoramic views over the hills of South Morar, and a wide coastal sweep with radiant white sandy beaches that were used in the filming of ‘Highlander’ and the classic ‘Local Hero’. Off shore we can see the Islands of Eigg and Rum.


It is now 12:25 and our journey terminates at Mallaig. We have 90 minutes to enjoy the delights this fishing and ferry port and enjoy a fish supper from Jaffys Fish and Chip shop located by the Station. 

Also of interest to our granddaughter was of course the Harry Potter Museum and the gift shop where we purchased a magic wand - never know when that could come in handy?




Mallaig is one of the main west coast ports. From here you can get a car ferry to Skye, Castlebay on Barra (a very favourite place) and the Small Isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna.






It developed like many other ports as a herring-fishing port in the 1890s. More recently it has become a centre for whitefish, prawn and lobster. Its prawn fleet is the largest in Scotland.


Like many places on this train journey the port town has links to Charles Edward Stuart who landed here on his flight from Skye disguised as a woman and assisted by the Jacobite heroine Flora MacDonald.




Our return obviously takes the same route as the outward journey but the train does not stop. It was a most enjoyable experience taking you back in time to saviour the delights and smells of an authentic steam train journey. My only complaint is that it’s quite difficult to take pictures as lots of passengers are trying to do the same thing and all at the same time.






We arrived back at Fort William Station, spot on time, at 4 o’clock and well in time to catch our bus back to the Glen Nevis Camping Park

The Exibition.



The young princess Charles Edward with his brother Henry Benedict Stuart


The National Museum of Scotland has been running a special exhibition called “Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites” since June 2017, but unfortunately for those who haven’t had a chance to get to the museum it finished on November 12th. The exhibition delves into this rather interesting period in Scottish history, which led to a complete change in the culture and lifestyles of the Scottish people that still resonates to this day.  The enduring and somewhat romantic story of the Stuart dynasty and their supporters, known as Jacobites, has fascinated people from the writings of Sir Walter Scott right up to the current Outlander books and television series.

The Landing.


Eriskay Beach.

Prince Charles first landed on Scottish soil on the 23rd July 1745 in the Outer Hebrides on a deserted beach on the island of Eriskay, why did this noble young prince take on what was a perilous and dangerous journey from France to western isles of Scotland? At this time in history the King of these kingdoms was a German, a member of the Hanoverian dynasty who many in these lands thought had no right to be on the throne and it was this reason that the Princes father, James VIII, sent his son to Britain to restore “the rightful king” to his hereditary seat and regain his right to rule. It was of course much more complicated than that involving the ambitions of the French and the Spanish, the tensions between England and Scotland since 1707. Add to this the religious divide and you have the setting for an almighty set too that reached its crescendo on the Culloden Moor on the 16th April 1746. To explain the reasons fully are complicated and many books have been written on the subject.  But suffice to say the main reason was to restore the Stuart dynasty to the throne of the three kingdoms, Ireland, England and Scotland.

Scone Palace.



11th September 1745 Prince Charles made a sentimental visit to the House of Scone where his father had stayed thirty years before. The Palace is next to the coronation site of the old Scottish kings.

Linlithgow Palace.




On the morning of 15th September 1745 Jacobites took peaceful possession of the palace of his ancestors at Linlithgow. The following January the Duke of Cumberland and his government troops stayed at the palace but put it to the touch when they left.


Edinburgh. 




The formidable Edinburgh Castle.
The capital fell to the Prince and his Jacobite army on the 17th September 1745 with out a struggle, all except the castle itself. 'The cantankerous 85 year old Lieutenant General Joshua Guest was ensconced up there with the original garrison of invalids, together with two companies of Lascelles 58th and a few runaways from Prestonpans'.


Battle of Prestonpans.


Prestonpans lies to the east of Edinburgh between Musselburgh and Cockenzie. Founded as a Priest Town by monks in the 12th century, designated as a burgh in 1552 with a harbour built four years later. The town developed in association with coal mining, fishing, salt works, pottery works and brickworks. It was close by, on the 21st September 1745, that Charles Edward Stuart and his Jacobite army defeated the Hanoverian government troops of General Sir John Cope.


The Battlefield view point.

One of the many information boards to be found at the view point .
 In Scotland, the main type of bing is coal spoil from deep mining. The old coal bing opposite the sports centre on the outskirts of Prestonpans has been shaped as a pyramid and covered in grass. At the top is a flag pole topped with the Scottish flag and a selection of information boards which informs us about what happened here on the 20th and 21st of September 1745 when the Jacobite army shook the English government and became the Kings of Scotland and gave Prince Charles Edward Stuart the confidence to march across the Scottish border and invade England.  


The 1745 Cairn.

The stone cairn was erected in the early twentieth century to mark the location of the battlefield. It contains a time capsule and wreaths are lain there annually in honour of the fallen of both the armies.  


The site of the Battle of Prestonpans.
The site of the thorntree memorial is now a public park area.

The Thorntree Monument.

The Thorntree Monument, erected in 1998, marks the spot where it is alleged that British cavalry officer Colonel James Gardiner was struck down and lay dying under a hawthorn tree, the only tree standing on the battlefield, which has long since gone. This was the area where it is said the fiercest fighting took place.  By coincidence Colonel Gardiner faced the final battle of a long army career near to his hometown and close to the house were he lived.  When Gardiner’s government troops fled the field of battle following the Jacobite onslaught he tried to rally his men and fought a gallant last stand, all in vain. He was shot through the leg and shoulder then brought down with the Highlander's axes and broadswords. A servant later found Gardiner only just clinging to life under the thorntree. He was taken to Tranent Manse where he died a short time later.



Tranent Kirk. 

It was north of Tranent, on open ground, that John Cope called a halt to his government troops that comprised 2034 rank and file and included 650 dragoons. Over fifty Jacobites belonging to Lochiels Camerons were positioned in the Tranent Church yard by Colonel John William O’Sullivan, a ready-made strongpoint, but were pulled back by Lord George Murray when they were attacked by Hanoverian artillery.
 

Bankton House. 

Rebuilt to match the original. 

The rear of the house and garden. 

 
This was Gardiner’s family home during the most settled time of his life, which he shared with his wife Lady Frances Erskine. In recent times the house suffered several major fires and was left in a ruinous state until the late twentieth century when it was restored to its original appearance. The house is now in private hands. 

The Doo'cot.


A wee man tells the story of Colonel Gardiner.
The Doo’cot is the only part of Bankton House that you can visit. Inside you will discover the Colonel Gardiner story told with a audio-visual presentation narrated by a wee man sitting in front of a fireplace.

  
Colonel Gardiner's Monument. 




The Monuments Plaque's.  

It has a lion on each of the four corner's.
In 1853 this large obelisk was erected in the memory of Gardiner and is now one of the iconic locations of the battlefield. Beyond stands his former home.

Johnnie Cope's Road.


Johnnie Cope’s Roa,  which was the route taken by the defeated British general and the surviving dragoons when they fled the battlefield.


Gardiner's Burial Plaque located in Prestongrange Kirk yard.

Prestongrange Kirk. 

Jedburgh.



Jedburgh Abbey.

The Prince entered Jedburgh on the 6th November 1745 and stayed close to the ruined  Abbey. Jedburgh was a town replete with the traditions of Mary Queen of Scots and other Stuart monarchs. 


This is the house in which the Queen of the Scots stayed in October 1566 overseeing the local Jedburgh district court. A year later she was forced to abdicate and spent the last nineteen years of her life as a prisoner following this she was beheaded by her cousin for being of the wrong religious persuasion.


Carlisle.





On the 18th November 1745 Prince Charles entered Carlisle in impressive style. mounted on a white charger and accompanied by 100 pipers. The streets were lined with cheering Highlanders, there were salutes of cannon and musketry from the castle and the walls of the town, and the bells were ringing all the time. 


Dumfries.


The Whiggish Dumfries still fly's the Union Flag.
When the Prince entered Dumfries on the 21st December he found that the fanatical local Calvinists where already celebrating the success of Cumberland and the annihilation of the Jacobite army much to the Princess amusement. As penance for stealing Jacobite goods that were left in Lockerbie on their way south the Prince demanded a fine of £2000 and 1000 pairs of shoes. To this day Dumfries cannot be depended on to vote for the right side of the political divide!    

Stirling Castle.



The storm clouds gather.

Stirling Castle was a place of great importance in Scottish history not least when William Wallace defeated the English at the battle of Stirling Bridge on the 11th September 1297 and likewise Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn on the 24th June 1314. It could have been a major prize for the Jacobites whether for offensive or defensive purposes, for it were situated at the narrowest point of the British mainland.
The castles defences were tested by the Prince and his army.

Prince Charles and his Jacobite army tested the castles defences as he marched south in 1745 and following his success at Falkirk on the 17th January 1746 he returned with his Lowlanders to continue the siege of the castle from adjacent Gowan Hill until 1st February when he pulled his army out of Stirling. 


Inverness Castle.



The rebuilt castle.
On a good day its worth the five pound it costs you to ascend the 94 stairs to the Castle viewpoint to get a breath taking 360-degree view right across Inverness and the surrounding countryside. You also get a couple of floors of local legend including how St Columba was responsible for Loch Ness having its own monster. The castle was blown up by the Jacobite’s in February 1746 so the medieval castle had to be rebuilt and is used today as the local Sheriff’s Court and therefore the main building is not open to the public. 


Blair Castle.




Between 1747 and 1758 Gorges brother, the 2nd Duke of Atholl rebuilt the castle as a Georgian mansion which is what you see today. 

Weaponry found in the Blair Castle.
Members of the Atholl family supported different sides of the political divide. It was when the Jacobites returned north that Lord George Murray found that his ancestral home was occupied by government forces.  On 16 March 1746 Lord George besieged the castle with the intention of demolishing it. But despite damage to the castle roof the government troops held out until 2 April 1746 when George withdrew north having failed to take the castle.  

Culloden Moor 16 April 1746


A lithograph showing the Battle of Culloden with Cumberland in the foreground.


An artists impression of the  brave Highlanders.

The Visitor Centre.



The Memorial Cairn.






Culloden Muir the site of the last battle to be fought on British soil.





The last battle that took place on British soil was on the 16th April 1746 between Prince Charles Edward Stuart and his Jacobite army, and the Government forces of the Duke of Cumberland who represented the Hanoverian claim to the British throne. The main reason for this bloodthirsty battle was to reclaim the thrones of Scotland, England and Ireland. Following a crippling defeat the Stuart dynasty where never again going to be able to reclaim  their rightful place as kings of the three kingdoms. It is alleged that over 700 brave Jacobites were killed in direct battle with a further 800+ wounded men slaughtered after the battle by Cumberland who was labelled ‘the butcher’ for his men's cowardly actions. The aftermath of the battle accelerated the dismantling of the Clan system and gave a foretaste of the Highland Clearances when families were forced from their homes and land. The bad taste left after this period still lingers to this day. Don't miss an opportunity to visit the National Trust property and take full advantage of a free tour of the battlefield to learn more about the Battles history.


Dunrobin Castle.





At the time of the Jacobite Rising, the Earl of Cromartie was George Mckenzie, a staunch Jacobite. In April 1746, reports reached the Earl that the Prince's men had been victorious at the Battle of Culloden. Without stopping to verify the truth of the report, Mackenzie gathered his men and launched an attack on Dunrobin Castle, seizing the castle in the name of the Stewart king. It was only after the Earl's men were ensconced comfortably in Dunrobin that news reached him that Culloden had in fact been a complete and utter disaster for the Jacobite cause. The Sutherland militia quickly surrounded the castle, and the Earl was captured. The apartment where he was found is still known as the Cromartie Room. 


Orkney.





By May 1746 the Orkney Islands was probably the last part of the British Isles which was under the control of the Jacobites.


Old High St Stephen’s Church Inverness.


The church where the prisoners were held.

The Jacobite Stone

The Kirk yard where the Jacobites were executed.

The original Parish Church of Inverness is where the Government housed the Jacobite prisoners after the battle of Culloden Moor in 1746. Those condemned to death were taken out and then executed in the churchyard. Two stones can be seen, one with two curved hollows and the other with a v-shaped grove - nine paces apart. The blindfolded prisoner sat on one while the musket of the executioner rested in the grove of the other. Their bodies were removed by the ‘poor folk of Inverness’ and unceremoniously thrown into a pit outside the church boundary.

Flora MacDonald Birthplace.





While on South Uist  pay a visit to Milton which is said to be the birthplace in 1722 of the great Scottish heroine Flora MacDonald's. A large cairn has been erected with a plaque and is surrounded by ruined blackhouses that would have formed a wee settlement. 

Across the sea to Skye.


Flora MacDonald's last resting place.


A short walk from the Crofting Village Museum on Skye is the grave of Flora MacDonald. During the Jacobite Risings, in June 1746, at the age of 24, she was living on the island of Benbecula in the Outer Hebrides when Bonnie Prince Charlie took refuge after the Battle of Culloden. The prince's companion, a Captain Conn O'Neill of The Feeva, County Antrim, sought her assistance to help the prince escape capture which she successfully did dressing him in ladies clothes provided by Lady Clanranald and sailed across the sea to Skye. You can now boast that you have visited both the great ladies  place of birth and also where she laid to rest.

Flora MacDonald Statue.





We again meet the Jacobite heroine Flora MacDonald in the form of a large statue by the Inverness sculptor Andrew Davidson erected outside the present day Inverness Castle in 1899.

Fort George.

 
Front entrance.


Part of the Fort.

Fort George was built to replace the original Fort at Inverness. This great white elephant,  was completed in 1769 by George II government to house an army of occupation in the Highlands after the  Culloden battle to ensure that the Highland Clans and there supporters would never again rise in support of the true heirs of the English, Scottish and Irish throne. It was never attacked by a Jacobite army or for that matter any other invading forces.


Miscellaneous items of interest.




Dunbeath Castle




The main entrance to the castle estate.

Dunbeath Castle.

Dunbeath Castle is in private ownership but I believe you can see the gardens in August and it can be hired for weddings. A descendant of Charles Edward Stuart’s personal physician, Mr Stuart Wyndham Murray Threipland, bought the 30000-acre estate in 1997. The Murray Threipland’s were one of the Stuart royal family's strongest sympathisers with the Old Pretender staying at Fingask Castle, there ancestral home, during his 1715 uprising. The Scots Baronial style castle dates back to 1428 but has been remodelled many times since by its many different owners.


Dunrobin Castle's Summer House.





This dirk belonged to John Mackay, a piper with the Earl of Sutherland when the earl marched with the government side to Culloden in 1745.


Stewartry Museum Kirkcudbright.







Arbroath Abbey.




The ruined Abbey today.

Arbroath Abbey is forever in antiquity as the location of the signing of the Declaration of Arbroath in 1320 that confirmed Scotland's status as an independent sovereign state and defended the country's right to use military action when unjustly attacked. 


For as long as but a hundred of us remain alive, never will we on any condition be brought under English rule. It is in truth not for glory, nor riches, nor honours that we are fighting, but for freedom’ 

That was until 1707 when Scotland was forced into the Act of Union which brought England and Scotland under one parliament, one sovereign and one flag, some thing its been trying to rescind ever since. The coastline around Arbroath was of great strategic value to the Jacobite's. 

Glemis Castle Angus.



Notes from the Author.


I live in a country that I chose to live in and not one I was originally born into and would never wish to change that. My love affair with Scotland started in the late 1980's and my family and I have lived and worked here for over 26 years, i am now fortunate to have three Scottish born grandchildren, and a further one on its way.

I certainly cannot be accused of being a royalist, It may have been different if the usurpers  had not highjacked the British throne that rightfully belonged to the Stuarts.  I feel that our present monarch is a complete and unnecessary burden on the UKs taxpayer. Along with her extended family we are paying for an array of expensive property, not for them the horrors of modern day poverty but during a period of austerity they are allowed to continue to luxuriate at the working persons expense while hiving their untold fortunes into tax havens. 

Hopefully one day Scotland will be free from the over bearing rule of Westminster and govern as a completely independent republic.

Various dates and information were from, British Heritage Sites, property guide books and Christopher Duffy's 'The '45 the Untold Story of the Jacobite Risings'  

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-south-scotland-42342490

https://www.britroyals.com/stuarttree.asp

https://youtu.be/MqVMoM5eraY



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