Our first real trip of 2017 - if you don't count staying at Edinburgh's
Mortonhall Camp Site for a visit to Holyrood to see and hear our First
Ministers Question Time - was not too far south of the Scottish Border. Bellingham is a lovely traditional
Northumberland village sitting on the banks of the River North Tyne and on the
edge of Northumberland National Park. This wee town has selection of small
shops, a Co-Op, a cafe, restaurant, Chinese Takeaway and a fuel garage. It also
has a Heritage Centre, which unfortunately did not open until the 31st March.
Another interesting landmark is the 13th century (substantially reconstructed
in the early 17th century we are told) Grade-1 listed St Cuthbert's Church that
is described as 'almost unique in England' owing to the stone barrel vault roof.
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Bellingham Main Street |
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The Old Station. |
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Town Hall and Library. |
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The War Memorial. |
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Village Bakery has a fine selection of cakes. |
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St Cuthbert's Church with its famous roof structure. |
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Inside this beautiful old church. |
Situated just a twenty minute walk from the village is the Bellingham
Camping and Caravan Club Site, which we found to be an excellent base
for our seven-day excursion. It borders the Pennine Way and has some long
distance cycle routes, it also has a bus stop situated right outside the site
gate, a Service 680 bus will take you (when the road is not closed for
resurfacing) directly into Hexham. The site is extremely well run, facilities
were exceptionally clean and the staff were very friendly and helpful.
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An excellent wee camp site. |
First off was a cycle ride to Kielder Dam, which holds back Europe's
largest artificial lake that boasts 200,000 million litres of water and a
27-mile shoreline. Our 22 mile round trip took in some stark and desolate
countryside showing little evidence of human habitation but no lack of sheep!
If you take National Cycle Route 10 it will keep you off the main roads and over
some high ground allowing some beautiful views of the surrounding area. The
route will take you via the small hamlet of Falstone and from there directly up
onto the dam. You can cycle from one side of this enormous structure to the
other via a roadway that runs its complete length and leads onto the main road
back to Bellingham - a lot of which was downhill - thankfully.
Next day we took a bus trip into the market town of Hexham for a look
around its historic Abbey and surrounds. Normally as I have said you can get
the bus from Bellingham directly into Hexham but as they are doing resurfacing
and roadwork’s in Wark it means the bus does not go straight through.
Northumberland County Council have laid on a free shuttle bus to take you from
Bellingham to Wark and then after a short walk through the town catch the
normal 680 bus for the remainder of the journey to Hexham's new modern bus
station. A short walk from there will take you through the shopping area to the
market place and the towns leading historical attraction. The Abbey in its current
form dates back to the 12th century with major rebuilding work taking place
between 1898 and 1908 when the rebuilt nave was re-consecrated. Also of
interest to the visitor is the permanent Exhibition and Visitor Centre that was
developed in 2014. A gift shop and a rather nice Cafe are also available but
lunch was at Paxton’s Fish and Chip Restaurant in Market Place, highly
recommended and value for money. An interesting straight through return bus
journey (road reopens at 15:00 hours each day) as it was full of local school
children that incidentally gave up their seats to older travellers on the bus.
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Inside Hexham Abbey. |
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Hexham Bandstand. |
Our third day out involved a leisurely walk to a waterfall via Hareshaw
Linn. This walk involved some local history of the area. Starting the walk at
the towns main car park which was the site of an ironworks in the mid 1800's
you carry on up over mounds made from the spoil of 70 ovens that supplied coke
to the ironworks where 500 men once worked. Passing the old dam you carry on
across ground that is made up of spoil from an old quarry that produced stone
used for building the miners houses. We were informed that you pass by blocked
up entrances to mine workings, but could not find them because of the thick
undergrowth. Most of the walk is through ancient 'enchanted' woodland and the
path crosses six wooden bridges before you get to the waterfall where you will
find a wooden bench where you can rest and enjoy a welcome sandwich or two
while admiring the view. You come back the same way into the village car park then
it was on to the Carriages Tea Room a refurbished 1950's railway carriage
located in the grounds of the Heritage Centre for coffee and some we'll
deserved chocolate fudge cake.
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The Old Dam. |
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The enchanted wood. |
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The Hareshaw Linn waterfall. |
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The Carriages Tea Room. |
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A well deserved slice of chocolate fudge cake. |
Northumberland's weather is a little unpredictable with wind and rain
not unsurprisingly on the menu for March but it did not spoil our short break.
Another bike ride with 23 miles being achieved on our last full day, but to be
honest it was a good job we had waterproof clothing with us. Heading out of
Bellingham village via the Heritage Centre on National Cycle Route 68 and following
the road sign for West Woodburn. On reaching the junction of the A68 turn right
head up the hill over the bridge and first left onto a minor road which will
take you to Monkridge and the junction with the A696 where you turn left and
ride down into Otterburn a wee village situated in the heart of Redesdale and here
you are only 16 miles from the Scottish boundary. Like a lot of places situated
close to the border it was the site of a major battle in 1388 between the
Scottish and English armies and one in which the English got a good pasting.
After lunch under the protection of the local bus shelter we set off back via
the Otterburn Mill and the B6320. A very steep climb takes you up and across
some beautifully bleak moorland and back into Bellingham. Despite the weather
it was a cracking ride.
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Otterburn. |
The Northumberland countryside is a very interesting part of the far
north of England and well worth a visit. We did originally want to explore some
of Hadrian’s Wall and Housesteads Roman Fort on the way home but due to the
very heavy rain and strong winds that will have to wait until we are in the
area again.
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The lovely Northumberland countryside. |
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