Friday, 22 March 2019

Stonehaven Aberdeenshire Scotland.



Our first trip of 2019 brought with it two new experiences. The first involved driving through a bad snowstorm that lasted from the south of Glasgow north to Perth, which as you can imagine was quite stressful. The second was much more pleasurable. Prior to going away we researched the local campsites to Stonehaven and discovered that there was one actually on the edge of the town. Queen Elizabeth Caravan Park belongs to the Caravan and Motorhome Club of which we were not members so by joining we saved enough money to pay for a yearly membership which in turn gives us a larger selection of camping sites to choose from.
 
Queen Elizabeth Caravan Park.
The campsite is highly recommended. Well set out, it has very large pitches that are big enough to accommodate a Caravan with an awning and space to park you car, so ample space for a Motorhome. Site facilities are exceptional clean and warm with plenty of hot water. The staffs are friendly and very helpful.
  
Stonehaven Harbour.



Various art work along Stonehaven shore.

The Old Town House and Clock Tower built in 1790.

Stonehaven, like many other towns situated on the Scottish coast, was originally an important centre of the 19th century herring trade whose harbour was improved in the 1820’s by Robert Stevenson, whose family name often crops up in our blog. During the 20th century the town changed from a fishing settlement to a holiday resort boosting a variety of recreational and sporting facilities.
 
The 50m Open Air Swimming Pool.


One of which is a grand open air 50-metre swimming pool (not open until the end of May) which was built in 1934 in Art Deco style. An indoor 25-metre pool is housed within the nearby leisure centre and is open to the public, a facility we were happy to make use of.  Also within a short walk of the site is a large well-stocked Co-op and further into town is a variety of smaller shops, restaurants and coffee shops.

Carron Fish Bar.

Now that's what you call an Ice-cream!

 More importantly there are three Fish and Chip takeaways to choose from, with one, the Carron Fish Bar claiming to be the birthplace of the deep-fried Mars bar. Local to the campsite is The Bay Fish and Chips on Beach Road that meant we could bring our fish suppers back to the Motorhome, a little expensive but a grand feast all the same. Also worth a visit is Aunt Betty's Ice Cream and Sweet Shop.
 
The Tolbooth Museum.

Plenty to see in the museum.

The oldest part of town on a rather wet day. 

A walk through Stonehaven along the shore, from just across the road from the site, will take you to the picturesque cliff bound harbour. An area surrounded by some of the oldest buildings in the town including the Tollbooth built around 1600 by Earl Marischal which now doubles as a local history museum.
 
Looking down on the Harbour.
From here you can cut through into Castle Street and then take the cliff/coastal path that will give you great views down onto the harbour, the shoreline and across the town.


Stunning views on the coastal walk to Dunnottar Castle.

View from Black Hill back to Stonehaven.



Stonehaven War Memorial on Black Hill.

Continue on the coastal path for some very rewarding views from above the cliffs. Then onto the Stonehaven War Memorial. Built on the Black Hill, a beautiful local view point above the town, in 1922 and officially unveiled in 1923 to commemorate the men and women who lost their lives in the First World War, more names were added after the end of the Second World War. Looking very different from what you would expect its quite unique, it was designed by a local architect to look like a ruined temple possibly to signify the ruined lives of those who’s names are on it but no one knows for sure.


Dunnottar Castle.

From here you can make out Dunnottar Castle a highlight of anyone’s visit to this area. Described as one of Scotland’s most impressive ruined castle, its location on a rocky headland jutting into the North Sea also makes it one of the most dramatic. Originally linked to the mainland by a narrow strip of land which was removed to increase its defences there is however quite a climb to gain access but well worth the effort.




The historic ruined castle.

A missionary station associated with St Ninian first occupied the rock in the 5th century. It was not until 1390 that the first stone castle was a built by Sir William Keith and remained in the Keith family, later the Earls Marischal, until 1716 when the 10th Earl, George Keith, lost his Earldom and forfeited his estates which included the castle because of his loyal support for James Frances Edward Stuart and the Jacobite cause. (See further details see  Jacobite Connections)
 
The Chapel were it said William Wallace attempted to burn 4000 of Edwards English troops. 
Dunnottar Castle has many other links to Scottish history. In 1297 legend has it that William Wallace, during the Wars of Independence and following Edward 1st of England’s invasion of Scotland, trapped 4000 English troops in the castles Chapel where they were seeking sanctuary and set a fire condemning all inside to a terrible death, any who did escape were driven over the cliff edges - it was said that no one survived.
 
View back to land from the castle.
Mary Queen of Scots stayed at the Castle on two occasions. The first a few days after the beheading of Sir John son of 4th Earl of Huntley in 1562 and again in September 1564 when she spent two nights there. It also has links to Charles 1st and The Honours of Scotland, currently housed in Edinburgh Castle. When Oliver Cromwell’s Parliamentary Army invaded Scotland he came after the Scottish Crown Jewels. Crown, sword and sceptre were smuggled from Edinburgh to Scone Abbey were Charles 2nd was crowned and then onto Dunnottar Castle. From there they ended up at nearby Kinneff Church where they remained until 1660. This is only a brief history associated with this wonderful castle, more can gleamed on your visit from the purchase of the official guide which is value for money and a very good read.
 
Marischal College.

King Robert sits guard outside the college.
Mercat Cross.

The main street via Mercat Cross.

Provost Skene's House.



Salvation Army Citadel.
The old type stamp dispensers. 

You canny miss with these!

Aberdeen sea front.

A long promanard with places to sit and enjoy your picnic. 

From Stonehaven there are good bus links to Aberdeen the third largest city in Scotland known as The Granite City because of the its handsome grey granite architecture. A very prosperous town that was originally dependent on fishing and trade until the discovery of oil in the 1970’s. A grand mix of shops and history plus the Aberdeen beach with its 2-mile promenade, a must on a bright day and a grand place to relax and enjoy your picnic.
 
The RSPB Fowlsheugh. 


The new viewing shelter.

Kittiwake.






Mainly Guillemots but if you look carefully you may see a Razorbill?

View north from Kincardine Cliffs.

View south from Crawton. 
RSPB Fowlsheugh at Crawton is one of the most spectacular bird watching sites in Britain and is just a 5 miles cycle ride south of Stonehaven, although on a windy day on the A92 you take your life in your hands. The North Sea cliffs provide home to upward of 130,000 breeding seabirds including guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, fulmars and the elusive puffins that unfortunately had not arrived on the day we visited - but were expected any day! It was here that I wanted to try-out my new long distance lens. Again because of the very high winds you were unable to get too close to the cliff edge. A new, rather splendid viewing shelter has been built at end of the well-maintained footpath and not only offers some grand sea views but also respite from the wind.


Cowie Church.

Northwards from Stonehaven is the ruined Cowie Chapel, which can be reached by walking along the coastal path, and dates back to the 13th century although it has been a religious site since the 7th century. Enlarged in the 1500 it fell into disuse in 1560 soon after the Reformation. Interestingly several Scottish monarchs, in particularly James IV are said to have worshiped here.
 
The Lifeboat Crew.

Family grave.

1735 Skull and Crossbones .



Cowie Church Cemetery.

In the graveyard are many fine memorials including one in memory of to the crew of the Stonehaven lifeboat who drowned on the 27th February 1874 whilst going to the rescue of the Grace Darling.


Stonehaven Bay and Shore Line.;

In conclusion I would repeat that the Stonehaven Queen Elizabeth Caravan Park is one of the best sites we have stayed on and the resort itself is very clean and tidy and boasts more rubbish bins than we have ever found elsewhere. Plenty to do and would make a great area to return with our grandchildren during the their summer holidays, although I would imagine that it would be a lot busier.  



1 comment:

  1. Thanks for your excellent review of your visit to Stoney. The only thing missing was a mention of those bloomin seagulls-they are so noisy and bold. The reason for the ample bins is so that people won’t leave any food about. We saw a seagull take a full size sausage roll from the wee bakers out a lad’s hand while it was halfway to his mouth. They could double for albatrosses I’m sure. You were braver than us as we were supposed to go last week but the snow put us off-don’t want to write off the new van before it’s even broken in!!

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