Following on from our trip to Tiree our next stop was at some of the most startling countryside in the Highlands of Scotland, Glen Coe. The spectacular scenery dates back hundreds of million years, when mountains were formed through violent volcanic eruptions and later sculptured by immense glaciers.
We stayed at the Glencoe Camping and Caravan Club Site, adjacent to the Glencoe Green Way, with excellent facilities, good size pitches but very busy as it was on the NC500 route. A compliment must be paid to the club staff who were some of the friendliest we have come across on our travels.
For the first time ever, the Glencoe Greenway makes it possible for folk to walk and/or cycle on a completely traffic free route through this dramatic landscape along side the very busy ,and fast A82. Glen Coe village is a two mile walk on the Greenway, but in all honesty other than being a cute wee village there’s not really a lot for the visitor to enjoy.
A little further on using the same pathway is the village of Ballachulish which is a far better prospect to explore.
It lies on the south side of Loch Leven to the west of Glen Coe and is famous for its slate quarries which go back to 1693 and was used to provide the roofing slate for much of Edinburgh and Glasgow. Although quarrying no longer takes place its quite a tourist attraction. The village itself is very attractive and has a nice visitors centre, serving food and drink, and a well stocked Co Op supermarket.
The village did boast two two places of worship. The Church of Scotland, built in 1845 its now closed and in private hands. The owner is in a battle with the local authorities over converting and prolonging the life of the building.
St Mun’s Catholic Church was built 1836 and is seemingly not changed apart from the addition of the Priests House to the side. As you can see its still very well cared for and loved by its congregation.
A very short walk from the camp site is the Glencoe National Nature Reserve Visitors Centre which is a great source to find out the history of the area. Hundreds of Highlanders from Clan Donald of Glencoe once made their home in what are now long lost townships.
A turf and creel house has been recreated by hand using traditional craft skills. Not only can you see a wee film about the building of the house, but the centre offers a free guided tour of the building. Which is most interesting and well worth while. taking advantage of.
Following on from your tour you can can enjoy something to eat and drink at the Highland Coo Cafe, inside the visitors centre.
| The ruins of the old settlement where killings took place. |
One of the most infamous and shameful acts of betrayal acts took place in Glen Coe was the Massacre of Glencoe in 1692. On the orders of William of Orange the Protestant King at the time soldiers, who had enjoyed the hospitality of the MacDonald Clan for 11 days, rose in the night and butchered their hosts. MacIan and 33 of his men , two women and two children were either put to the sword or shot dead. Many others members of the MacDonald Clan perished in the deep winter snow blizzards as they tried to escape. All stemmed from a ruling that all Clan Chiefs, many of which had remained loyal to King James 2nd, where told to swore an oath of allegiance before January 1st 1692 and therefore would be regarded as loyal subjects and no action would be taken against them. But due to various administration problems MacIan was unable to take the oath before the dead line.
There were certainly other places on the Greenway to enjoy if you head south.
| Loch Achlriorochtan. |
A small shallow fresh water loch located to the east go Glen Coe village.
| An Torr |
A small mixed woodland owned by the National Trust for Scotland. Marked paths through the wood lead to Signal Rock.
| Signal Rock. |
I am stand standing on Tom a' Ghrianain, Gaelic for Hill of the Sun, capped by Signal Rock. Many myths and legends surround Signal Rock and tradition has it that this was the gathering point for the MacDonalds of Glencoe at times of emergency. The rock may have taken its name from its use over the years as a site for lighting a beacon, and some people believe that it was here that a fire was lit to signal the start of the Massacre on 13 February 1692. However, there is no evidence to support this theory.
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