As promised a return to Belfast after our enjoyable trip in February, we wanted to visit places and attractions that we did not have time to visit on that previous trip.
From Kirkcudbright its not a problem to drive down to Cainryan Port, park the car for approximately £6 per day in the large on site car park, and board the Stena Line Ferry. From the Northern Ireland port you can get a 96 bus straight into the centre of the city.
Belfast is a very busy city with lots of shops and places to eat including the Best fish and chip shop in Belfast John Longs.
The Falls and Divis Street was a previous highlight, so to keep a balance we decided to explore the Shankill Road and walk through some of the back streets. Must be honest it did not have the same feeling as the Falls, it seemed cold and unwelcoming, or perhaps it was just me or the vast mount of the Union Flags? But it is certainly a strong unionist/loyalist area as witnesses by the wall plaques and art and has an obvious loyalty to the UK and the English King.
During the troubles this area was the centre of loyalist activity with the Ulster Volunteer Force based in this area. Its alleged the UVF leader, Gusty Spencer was responsible for the murder of catholics in this area.
Another well known resident of the Shankill was a certain Mr Lenny Murphy who led the infamous Ulster loyalist gang The Shankill Butchers until the Provisional IRA put a stop to his activities.
You can walk through to the Falls from the Shankill during the day but not between 20.30 and 6.30 when the security gates are still closed and locked. every night.
Also on our inventory was the Crumlin Road Gaol. I must admit we found to be an affecting experience. The Gaol closed its doors as a working prison in 1996 having housed men, women and children since 1845. At the start of the Troubles circa 1969 and internment without trail from 1971 brought a sudden and dramatic increase in the prison population, which was to last for many years.
Each cell was originally designed for single occupancy and in 1849 the capacity was 320. During the 1970’s and 80’s the prison population would reach 1400. During this time it was not uncommon to have 3 prisoners to a cell with still no sanitation in the cells and therefore ‘slopping out’!
We thought the most daunting place in the prison was where the hangman performed his duties. During the lifetime of the gaol seventeen men were executed and their bodies buried within the prison walls. Apparently it was part of of the death sentence to be buried in an unmarked grave in unconsecrated ground. (As if hanging wasn’t enough punishment) Hanging continued at Crumlin Road until 1961. Two men were sentenced to death in 1973 but both had their sentences commuted down to jail time.
Interestingly the Crumlin Road Courthouse is directly opposite the Gaol and prisoners were taken to the court direct from the prison via a tunnel under the road.
The Belfast Odeon was showing I Swear, so after a meal at Nando’s opposite we purchased two tickets and greatly enjoyed this rather exceptional movie.
Another very interesting trip, and one we were looking forward to, was the Titanic Quarter. I think most folk are familiar with the story behind the ship. Built by Harland and Wolff in Belfast, registered in Liverpool and sailed from Southampton on the 10th April 1912 for New York via Cherbourg. Sinking in the early hours of 15th April 1912 after hitting an iceberg with a great lose of life. I pre booked a White Star Premium Pass although thought to be quite expensive it turned out to be value for money. Firstly we went on the Discovery Tour this was a guided outdoor walk. We were shown were the ship was built, designed and launched. Then we went inside the magnificent building to witness the The Titanic Experience where you learn about the history of this remarkable ship. As part of the deal your get a free hard cover guide book and a rather nice fridge magnet depicting a Titanic Boarding Pass.
Part of the Premium Pass is a visit to the Hamilton Dock and the SS Nomadic, which was converted into a museum in 2018. A former tender of the White Star Line launched on the 25th April 1911. She was built to to transfer passengers and mail to and from the ocean liners Olympic and the Titanic. Its the last White Star Line vessel in existence today and has a very interesting history which you learn about on board.
Also worth a visit is the Alexandra Dock to see the last remaining British First World War light cruiser HMS Caroline built in 1914. She is the last survivor of the Battle of Jutland still afloat.
Completion of another enjoyable trip to this busy city. The ferry was delayed 80 minutes by the weather but fortunately got home in the light so it was not a problem.
