Lundin Links, Kingdom of Fife 2020

 

Finally, we are able to use our Motorhome to travel and stay at a caravan and camping site in Scotland that had reopened. It’s been five very long months since we returned prematurely from Arran in March and I must be honest in saying that we were a wee bit apprehensive about this, our first trip. It was decided not to go up to the Highlands because of the negative stories in the press and the way people, who do not know how to behave, were giving campers a bad name, perhaps these idiots will be able to return to Spain next year? So, it was decided that somewhere not too far from home, quiet and well organised was required.

Woodland Gardens Caravan Site is a small family run campsite on the slopes of Largo Law in the East Neuk of Fife. It is a one-acre site with pitches normally set out in groups of four and five for pods, caravans, tents and campervans. All caravan pitches are hard standing with electric hook up as standard. Because of Covid 19 restrictions, they had in place various extra measures for visitor’s safety including extra spacing for motorhomes and caravans, no tents at present, hand sanitiser stations, a red-light system for use of shower and toilet facilities block with other facilities including the reception room and laundry closed.

This is a grand site that we would be happy to visit again and would not hesitate to recommend it to other campers. Clean and well organised during this tricky period we felt very confident about staying here.

An enjoyable one-mile walk from the site brings you to Lower Largo, a conservation area situated on Largo Bay, which was an ancient fishing village and has historic links to the Knights Templar. Its main claim to fame however is as the birthplace of Alexander Selkirk in 1676. It was he who provided the inspiration for Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe. Outside 99-105 Main Street there is a life size statue of Selkirk dressed in self made goatskin clothes scanning the horizon for the ship that will rescue him after four years and four months as a castaway on an uninhabited island in the South Pacific 7500 miles from home.

Quite a busy wee spot where you can spend an entertaining afternoon indulging in ice cream from Andy’s Shop and watching adults and children flying kites, sailing boats and playing in the sea (wet suits were a must).

The cuts, in 1965, to the railway network overseen by Richard Beeching closed the railway line that went through Lower Largo but the viaduct that carried the track still dominates the village.

The nearest ‘large’ town is Leven which boosts a sports/leisure/swimming pool centre which was of cause not open due to government regulations. The town itself has a shopping high street that like most towns these days has a run-down feel about it. Sainsbury's however has a large store not far from the local bus station. From Largo there is a coastal path to Leven that follows the line of the beach on one side and a splendid looking golf club on the landward side. If you have to carry shopping back buses run from the bus station to the bottom of the Blindwells Road and then a short walk up the hill back to Woodlands Gardens.    

Cycling locally is certainly not recommended on the main ‘A’ Roads that criss-cross this area of Fife as they are narrow, bendy and very busy, but careful study of our OS map provided some attractive looking B Roads without risking life and limb.

Only seven miles from the camp site is the village of Ceres, made all the more picturesque    by the beautiful summers day we choose to cycle there.

Ceres is one of a very few Scottish villages to have a village green. Known locally as the Bow Butts because of the archery practice that took place there in medieval times.

Overlooking the Bow Butts is a monument commemorating the men of Ceres who fought in the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314 when Robert the Bruce gave an English King, Edward the Second, a sound thrashing on the battle field.

Crossing the Ceres Burn since the 17^th century is the old packhorse bridge known as the Bishops Bridge which displays a lovely span of cobbled stone surfacing.

 

Look closely around the village and you will come across a sculptor of a Toby Jug. This is thought to depict the Rev. Thomas Buchanan who became the last church provost of Ceres in 1578.

Other points of interested to see during your visit to this most interesting wee village is of course the parish church, built in 1806, and its Kirk Yard, and when open the Fife Folk Museum   which occupies several old houses which were renovated in 2003-4 following a fundraising campaign.

Half a mile from the campsite is the main A915 which leads directly to St Andrews via a number 97 bus or an X65 but the number 95, although its final destination is again St Andrews, takes the scenic route right along the coast via many coastal towns including a very busy town of Anstruther.  Because of the large amount of visitors we decided to stay on the bus until Crail

Crail, which was confirmed as a Royal Burgh by Robert the Bruce in 1310, lies ten miles southwest of St Andrews. It has a very pleasant architectural feel especially around the harbour area. It was in the church of Crail that John Knox, on the 29^th May 1559, preached a sermon against popery which so inflamed the populace that they immediately rose and in a very short time demolished the church, not only in Crail but also in surrounding areas. It was also once famous for its capons and an important seaport, exporting salt, fish, mutton and woollens to the continent. Still a fishing village where fresh grab and lobster can be purchased from the harbour side. Its main function today is as seaside resort. Attractions like the Customs House and the museum are not open at present but there is plenty to see and enjoy never the less.

Next stop was  Pittenweem, another of the many fishing villages on this coast. Its harbour was built 17^th century and many of its houses have been restored by the National Trust for Scotland under its Little Houses Improvement Scheme. Pittenweem still has a thriving fish market and in normal times has an annual arts festival in August.

After some homemade ice cream, we got the 95-bus back to Largo, although the return bus time table wasn’t very accurate!  

Our second cycle trip was an undulating journey via country lanes and some beautiful country side that took us to within four miles of St Andrews at the Craigtoun Country Park. The park is an ideal spot for family outings, spacious green areas for a picnic and lots of room for ball games. There is a miniature railway and the ‘Puffin Billy’ vintage tractor rides both of which seem very popular.

Dutch Village.

Cypress Avenue.

Forty-seven acres of the grounds were originally purchased by the Fife Council in 1947 for £25k from the Mount Melville Estate which included the Dutch Village built in 1920, and the Cypress Avenue which was designed by the Architect Paul Waterhouse (1861-1924). Part of the original ground’s houses the Scottish Golf Headquarters - The Dukes.

Cross the road from the camp site and you will find a path that leads to Keil’s Den. Den is the Scots word meaning ‘narrow wooded glen’ which perfectly describes this circular sixty-minute walk around an ancient woodland and the burn that runs through it. A very peaceful walk for a Sunday morning but not for the poor man who lost his wee spaniel Rex who we did come across twice but because he had no collar could not get hold of the poor wee mutt. Hopefully all ended well.

Both the camp site, the surrounding country side and our short distance from the shore made our stay in this part of Scotland very enjoyable and would not hesitate to revisit the area again. Congratulations to Craig and Jan Young for running a good, friendly and safe site, we felt very much at home there.